Sunday, September 19, 2010

Relax, you’ve got a friend

About a year ago, I saw an advertisement with the phrase “Relax, you’ve got a friend” which on its own is a decent catch line. Add to this, a visual of a determined and solemn looking girl making her way against the backdrop of a few green hills. On her back she is carrying a smaller, rosy cheeked, and chubby girl who is resting her head against the older girl's back. The piggy-back traveller has her eyes shut displaying a complete satisfaction with her helper, as if aware that she is in safe hands. Now, you have a winner!

The advertisement always strikes a chord with me, perhaps because it brings back memories of a similar feeling, of being taken care of. Picture a cosy bed with blankets and pillows neatly arranged, and a small baby girl – barely a year old, right at the middle of it. Dressed in a baby-pink frock, lying on her back, her tiny toed feet and legs curl forming a diamond shape. A mischievous almost-smile touches her lips as she stretches her dimpled, soft hands towards the gentle and curious hands that reach out for her. Next to her, propped on a pillow is a taller, four-year old girl. She has big, fawn eyes, well defined lips for her age, and an expression of confidence, as she clasps the hand that has groped hers in a tight clutch. She leans over and tests the smile on her baby sisters face by tickling her. A gurgling flow of laughter rumbles out of the babe. Delighted, she hugs the baby and plants a kiss against her cheek, her curly hair tumbling over in laughter. In a moment she moves back, ever caring and resumes her role as observer and protector.

Several years later, the younger sister is on stage for a dance competition. She is excited but nervous. The judge and crowds look at her - some expectantly, some dismissively. Her eyes rove, as she introduces her piece, and come to rest at a pair of big, brown eyes. They are smiling at her, encouraging and promising that all will be well: a little comfort for the little, troubled soul. And then disappointment at loss, and yet there next to her is that strong hand holding her hand again. A soft voice explaining that some more effort next time will make her better. A reassuring “it's okay,” making it clear that loss doesn't indicate failure – an explanation that is followed by a promise of help and a smile on both faces.

Another visual: The young girl is devastated, her sister is weeping. A feeling of despair awakens in her. She approaches the tearful, round eyes that have hidden themselves under a pair of delicate hands. She prods her sister willing her to look up. There is no response. The young girl knows she is the reason her sister is sad. She turns her gaze towards the book she has just torn in a fit of rage; her sisters favourite book and she is so sorry. She approaches her sister again and pats her head as she says sorry. Angry and reproachful her sister looks up and sees her making attempts to fix the book. They are both laughing in a few minutes. All is well in the world.

Times of playing tricks together, dancing together, playing together. Times together and times apart but a surety that that hand will always be there to guide and hold as required to cherish and love all the time. A real life feeling of relax, you’ve got a sister!

Monday, September 13, 2010

Riding the Bullet


"Riding the bullet” – a simple phrase that calls to mind the horror novel by Stephen King. And yet, it offers another perspective, a little less nightmarish and just as exciting. Yes, I’m talking about riding the bullet - a Royal Enfield Bullet.

Feel the thump; ride the wind; kick to start, start to ride, ride to live, and live to ride- these phrases can only have special meaning to a true rider. So what sets apart regular motor bikers and the die hard riders?

Harish Kavirajan is a true rider. His first ride was on a Java, way back in 1983. A young man’s few rides have now transformed and matured into a passionate lifestyle and hobby. Harish's journey, from the Czech Java to Royal Enfield Bullets, has been interspersed with various other bikes, including scooters (a Lambretta, a Vespa , and a Vijay super), a Honda CB600 and a Yamaha RX135. In 2002, Royal Enfield stamped its mark on his riding career, with a 350cc Thunderbird. Royal Enfield’s robust technology that goes back to the 1940s, and its uniqueness as the only bike in the world with a 500cc single cylinder engine, form the basis for its alluring qualities. Unlike Harley Davidsons, Bullets are readily available in the Indian market and are not gas guzzlers, adding to their appeal. It is no wonder then that the Thunderbird, an A500cc Cast Iron, an A500 LB Machismo, an A350 Machismo and two Lightning 535s are prominent in Harish's motor bike portfolio.


The A500 Machismo
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, Leh 2000


The 500cc Cast Iron
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, Leh 2000


The Two Lightning 535s
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, Leh 2000

For Harish, the preference of biking to other means of travel lies in simple concepts: "cars are boring, the bus is crowded, trucks are too big for one person, and mopeds are for girls." On a more serious note, Harish believes travelling on a bike is special – “the speed, the wind, the freedom” of a bike ride is consummate, its low fuel consumption only adds to its appeal. Harish iterates that with a bike ride the advantage of navigating through traffic, especially on narrow roads and lanes, is not only convenient but provides a chance for “off-roading” and of course, "a guy on a great looking bike is always bound to get a fair maiden’s attention!"

On average, Harish spends four hours a week on maintaining his bike. These four hours ensure that the bike is clean and any repairs or faults are fixed. For someone who has spent numerous years embracing bikes, designing his own custom bike was the next big step and the A350 Machismo is his stepping stone into customizing a bike – with work being put into the suspension, handling, performance and luggage carrying areas


The Custom A350 Machismo
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, 2010


Riding the A350
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, 2010

After a quick chat with Harish, about bikes and his experience with them, the obvious questions of favourite ride and a favourite bike pop up, and it's no surprise that the answers to these questions are Leh and (less obviously, for those who are not familiar with it) the Royal Enfield Cast Iron 500. Harish has biked to Leh three times, but the first time claims top prize in being special in every way and perhaps also because it was the Cast Iron he rode.


Harish Leh 2000
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, Leh 2000


The Bikers crew
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, Leh 2000


The 500cc cast iron against the backdrop of mountains
photo courtesy of Harish Kavirajan, Leh 2000

Harish’s passion for riding sets him apart from other riders because it is now a natural part of his life. As a member of the Lightning 535 club (an elite club for owners of Lightning 535 bullets), Harish is part of a group of riders who regularly bike to various destinations, over select weekends. He is currently also a partner and member of Just4Rides (www.just4rides.com), a company that specialises in tours, on Royal Enfield Bullets, to different parts of India, hoping to let the riders experience the adventures of a lifetime. Riding offers Harish a way to express personality - be it through the style of riding, the sound of the bike or simply the way the bike is decked. It would be sufficient to say that a bike ride is a ride that offers perfection!

The Highway, or the Greenway

Green has always been one of my favourite colours. The hues and shades it offers stand out in any environment- ocean, mountain, savannah or forest…and despite the odds even in the city.

It’s interesting though that many people today do not understand the value of a green environment. Appreciation for its beauty, scientific and natural value seems to thin out by the minute. The sacrifice of nature and wildlife for human “development”, greed and dirty politics is progressing at such great pace that emaciated flora and fauna is the grim future that awaits us. Over the years East Africa has been at the forefront of environmental disasters. The Mau forest and Nairobi city itself are stark examples of things going awry. Not surprisingly a UNESCO world heritage site is now under threat- The Serengeti National Park. A controversial highway is set to be built through the national park cutting across the migratory paths of approximately two million wildebeest that cross over from the Serengeti to the Maasai Mara in search of food. This annual spectacle is one of the natural wonders of the world and plays a major role in the tourism and economic industries of both Kenya and Tanzania.

This isn’t the first threat that the Serengeti has faced but perhaps it is the most dangerous. The Tanzanian president, Mr. Kikwete has approved the plan to build a non-paved highway through the Serengeti national park dismissing world outrage and concern along with Nyerere doctrines as baseless. The Environment Impact assessment for his decision must be one of the worst in EIA history and offers no realistic solutions to the impact of the proposed highway. Development for any country is important but development must make sense in the long run as well. Naturalists and Environmentalists have shown that an alternate route – the southern route is a viable and more profitable solution. So why is the government of Tanzania still persisting on building the Serengeti highway? Three critical reasons come to mind,

1. Mining interests in the region
2. Ensuring a campaign promise made in 2005 is fulfilled and that the road will win more votes by easing the transport requirements of businesses by linking Musumba and Arusha.
3. Asserting government power by defying world recommendation
But the above three reasons are not justification enough to call forth a long term catastrophe.

A road through the National park is bound to increase the animal road kills. Roads to Mikumi National park in Zambia(5000 animal deaths per year), Tsavo (over 100 species per day) and even Bandipur in India (where animal road kills are said to exceed the poaching numbers) are just a few examples of where roads have lead to serious loss of animal life due to accidents. Many of you are familiar with the Maasai Mara. The July-September season is migration time and the pathways and roads through the park are heavily populated by wildebeest and zebra. Recently I got the chance to see this spectacle, and the thought of heavy commercial trucks through this site was more than horrifying. One combi can manage to kill atleast three of these animals in every herd. Now just imagine twenty to thirty trucks driving on a single stretch of road that has thousands of wildebeests’ crossing...I see blood. I see death.

Earlier this year Tanzania saw its proposal to sell off ivory revoked at the CITES meeting. Tanzania already has a problem, a growing problem, with poaching. A highway is a sure way of easing access for poachers and game hunters to their prey. The ease of transporting poacher’s loot will simply act as a catalyst for quick hauls and increase security problems in the region.

If the Tanzanian people are to benefit from the project, the southern route will serve five times the number of people (2,278,000 vs. 431,000). The southern route already has the infrastructure to support such a construction (fuel, lodging and so on) and can utilize existing roads reducing the cost of the entire project. The road is also likely to attract more donor-funding and has the greatest advantage of not interfering with the Serengeti ecosystem.

The increased pressure on the eco-system and natural habitat will eventually have a global impact. Increased infrastructure and agriculture in the area is bound to affect weather patterns, food cycles and the order of things radically.

The Serengeti National park, as a UNESCO world heritage site and as part of the seven world’s natural wonders, provides Tanzania with marketing for its country and boosts its tourism industry. Destroying this will definitely lead to a fall in the reputation of the country and worse still a boycott of tourism in the region resulting in a serious and detrimental loss of revenue for Tanzania and Kenya.

Human-wildlife conflict is such a clichéd phrase in this age and time simply because it is a very real and common problem, especially for us in Africa and in India where we have such diverse eco-systems. A commercial road through this area will increase this conflict. Settlements and an increasing human presence in the area, along with constructions of human amenities and an increase in noise and pollution will unnerve animals and could lead to attacks from both sides. As the animals cross through human populated areas any damage will result in a deterioration of the co-habitance

The above are only some of the reasons why the highway is a bad idea. Many of you reading this might wonder why a highway in some remote place in Tanzania should be of importance to you. Stop wondering. This road is, perhaps later than sooner, going to affect you. A reduction in tourism in East Africa, an increase in the crime rate through poaching, an increase in pollution, a dictatorial like regime and a loss of reputation is only the beginning of the problems the highway spearheads.

Green is not only one of my favourite colours it is also a colour that symbolizes new things and life. Imagine a future where you cannot breathe fresh air, a future where you cannot go on a safari, a future where research is restricted, a future where breathing would be stifling.

To quote his holiness the Dalai Lama, “Peace and the survival of life on earth as we know it are threatened by human activities that lack a commitment to humanitarian values. Destruction of nature and natural resources results from ignorance, greed and lack of respect for the earths’ living things.” It is time to end this war with nature. As a resident of East Africa and the world, take a stand and say YES to the greenway… and to life!

Kindly sign the petition to stop the highway
http://www.change.org/petitions/view/stop_the_serengeti_highway
for more information http://www.savetheserengeti.org

Saturday, July 17, 2010

The Serengeti Highway


Over the last month or so there has been a growing interest on Africa, with focus on the world cup, and of course the highly controversial Serengeti highway.

The world cup has come and gone having enjoyed the attention of the world at large. The proposed Serengeti Highway and the consequences that are bound to follow such a construction are here to stay and should be of major concern to the people of Tanzania, East Africa, and the rest of the world.

The Serengeti National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is home to vast species of fauna and hosts approximately seventy larger mammal species. It provides an ecosystem whose diversity cannot be matched. 

The Serengeti National park in its entirety is under threat.

News of the proposed Serengeti highway is sparking outrage around the world. The highway that is meant to connect Arusha and Musumba is a fulfilment of a political campaign promise. This highway, officials argue will run through the northern part of the Serengeti and will not disrupt the annual wildebeest migration to and from the Maasai Mara. Officials continue saying that the road will provide residents along the area with much needed development and offer great benefits. Ministers have been quoted in various articles stating that studies and research have been conducted and there will be no impact on the wildlife. The results of the same studies are nowhere to be seen.

Conservationists and environmentalists, on the other hand, have been able to show how the proposed highway will definitely impact the migration, the ecosystem and in the long run a whole lot more.

As a concerned resident of East Africa and as someone who has watched the migration and been to the Maasai Mara, there are numerous thoughts that come to mind.

- An intrusion into wildlife conserved space is bound to increase the already fragile balance between humans and wildlife. Human-wildlife conflict is already a grave concern. Further encroachment on free land will mean an increase in this conflict (which is already a great strain on any environmental institute or organization – governmental or non-governmental). Can the Tanzanian & Kenyan governments handle this increase and maintain their tourist incomes?

- It seems very likely that if this highway is built, more governments in the region, continent and perhaps the world will go ahead and have infrastructures built within national reserves, game parks and even sanctuaries. Are we then going to wipe out entire species? This seems very likely and if it comes into play, we are looking at a decline in tourism, a decline in research and scientific activity in the area, a decline in avenues for medical and other research, a loss of knowledge for us and future generations, and a complete mess of food cycles and ecosystems.

- Tanzania already has a problem with poaching. Can the government proposing the highway give the world a guarantee that the road will not increase the ease with which animals - the “endangered African elephant” especially - will be poached. Poachers are sure to have easier access into the game park and a much easier way to transport out their “loot”. Is this highway then a path to increasing illegal activities such as poaching? A standard example is the Nairobi- Mombasa highway that cuts through Tsavo East and Tsavo West National Parks. The highway and development around it allows poachers and game meat hunters to regularly attack vulnerable animals in the area including the endangered African elephant.

- Arguments that the wildebeest and other migratory animals can still cross a road appear childish. Take for example, a migratory group that stretches a 30KM path – how many cars on the highway will wait for the animals to cross over? How long will they wait? Can the studies and research that have apparently been carried out make a clear statement on the animal road kills that are likely to occur? Statistics from studies done on the Tanzania-Zambia highway that crosses the Mikumi National Park shows that road deaths of animals was estimated at 21•8 road kills per kilometer,per year, once the highway was laid out. Using these figures, we are looking at approximately 5000 deaths per year on a 400 Km highway, by road kills alone. The migratory patterns of these animals is sure to change. Animals are human, noise and pollution shy and with the development of a highway, all three of these factors will be on an increase - human influx, noise from the traffic and pollution from vehicles traversing the road will pronounce, sooner than later, an end to the greatest migration spectacle of the world.

- Garbage. The word may sound trivial but its impact is extremely poisonous. As the number of users on the proposed highway increases, the likelihood of garbage finding itself around the area, is a guarantee. A standard example is the Nairobi National park. The effects of the development in the Kitengela area is pronounced: fewer animal are seen on that end of the park and familiar sites of plastic bags and cartons can be seen flitting across the Savannah. How is the government proposing to handle this potential garbage menace? What impact will the garbage have on animal populations?

The above are perhaps a few of the numerous impacts of the highway. This is a call to East African Governments, The Tanzanian People, All tourist boards and companies and the people of the world to ensure that the Tanzanian Government opts for the alternate route for this highway that passes south of the Serengeti. This route apart from benefiting more people will also remove the pressures from a highly vulnerable ecosystem. I ask that,

- The Tanzanian Government unwaveringly stand by its pledge and signed mandate to protect the UNESCO World Heritage Site and take whatever measures are necessary to stop the highway encroaching on Serengeti space. As the extract below shows:

The United Republic of TANZANIA ratified the UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE CONVENTION on 02 August 1977. This Convention lays down the legal requirements for status, recognition and obligations in respect of WORLD HERITAGE SITES.
TANZANIA, through its government, not only VIOLATES such a significant global 'convention', ...but it also VIOLATES it's own national obligations, as a member of the UNITED NATIONS, by NOT adhering to that organization's charters, treaties and conventions of all related bodies (such as UNESCO) to which TANZANIA is a committed signatory.

- All Tourist Boards and Companies to exert pressure along with their voice of protest to the government of Tanzania. The loss of this park is going to make a dramatic difference and a negative one to tourism and the country's reputation. The highway will also put at risk the economies of both Tanzania and Kenya. The revenues collected by tourism from both these countries cannot be matched by a single highway. It is then time for the Kenyan government and other officials to exert economic and political pressure on the Tanzanian Government to avert this danger. It is time for action.

- NGO’s, Research Institutes, Scientists and Educational institutes to stand against this highway. I call on the aforesaid to make their stance clear, iterating the damage that is likely to occur and re-iterating that there are alternatives that can work as well if not better.

- The East African region which has over the years has been faced with degrading environments and dodgy environmental issues (the Mau forest in Kenya, Tanzania’s move to trade in ivory are just a few example) take a stand. The threat to the Serengeti and other east African sites has become one too many. This is a call to the people of the world to say enough is enough. In Wangari Maathai’s words, “The environment is not about today or tomorrow. The environment is about all the time. It is about the air we breathe. It is about the water we drink.” For the logical people out there, it is time to dig in deeper to the impacts of the environmental damage that this single highway could propagate. It could in the next fifteen or so years determine whether you are able to drink water. It is about whether your children and future generations can reap the benefits of a formidable and matchless ecosystem. It is time for people to stand and say that you will not allow a government to make short sighted selfish decisions.

- The people of Tanzania demand transparency and fairness in all government action, starting here. Can all Tanzanian businesses and people ask for clarity on the research and studies conducted by the government on the impacts of the highway. Can we jointly make a call that the people who carried out this research have open debates with environmentalists, other politicians, statisticians and scientists so we can all better understand the underlying issues.

The above are only some of the impacts and reasons why the proposed Serengeti highway should not be ratified. It is even more concerning that institutes such as the World Bank lack the responsibility and/or authority to force the government to opt for the alternate route. This article is long but needs to be so because there are as many concerns that must be dealt with. For all the sceptics, please feel free to conduct your own research on the issue and make a change.

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Green and infrastructure!

A drive down Chiromo road or towards it, and the familiar sight of what was once the International Casino meets you. Museum Hill round-about is no longer what it used to be - once a lush green corner filled with trees and plants, it is now a dreary sight for anyone who has half a brain. And it only gets worse: the trees, that took years to grow and have been part of the magnificent view against the backdrop of the National Museum, are no longer erect, but lay dead and heaped along the road, after being cut off to accommodate the upcoming high-tech road network.

Of course we need the roads! Hell, after spending hours in traffic, I'm sure everyone agrees we need more roads- let's build them! And voila, we have a great plan: great infrastructure being built by the oh, so environment conscious Chinese! Question is, do we really need the needless destruction as well? Is it impossible to improve our transport network, without wanton destruction of our environment? Does development necessitate a needless demolition of our surroundings? Is Nairobi set to become another concrete jungle city?

One might argue that cutting down a "few trees" at one round-about doesn't precedent great disaster, but lets take a look at patterns: State house road - over the last few weeks numerous trees have been cut off on this once beautiful avenue of sorts. One only has to look at Westlands and Parklands (Hurlingham is catching up) to see how many trees have been mutilated over the last few years. I wonder how long our safe havens (for now - Karen, Runda, Loresho etc)will last? (Isn't it a pity we now have specific green areas? (and lavington no longer falls under this list.)) And, no one seems to be questioning these decisions or choices! Where is the famed Green Belt Movement? It seems to me that it is a dead association. What are organizations like NEMA doing? Can they account for the number of random buildings appearing on our skylines, all the office buildings in residential areas and the shoddy infrastructures that have propped up at random corners?

Ever driven down the by-pass joining Mombasa road to Langata? Right next to the National park, the road is an eye-sore, the buildings alongside are ugly, if not horrendous monstrosities. Slums are developing right next to the road and the garbage collecting alongside the park fence is a sight-full! The one good thing about this is KWS's initiative to plant trees - please do become part of this must needed change...

That brings me to something else that is perhaps the most annoying thing about the whole situation - our lack of interest and action. How many people really give a damn that we are becoming a less green, more dirty city? Selfishness to sell land and make money, or buy more buildings and build more things, is so great that we don't seem to be thinking at all. Do we really need to sell land to someone who will build a gigantic structure next to someone's house? Can we think beyond our selfish causes? We are the same people who complain when there is no water flowing from our taps, no rainfall - drought, a high cost of living! And then , when the rain does come, we complain that it is inconsistent, that it is washing away buildings, causing havoc! Think People!!!!! Its time for radical green thinking - you have a responsibility that is beyond you and yours; beyond making money and making it big; beyond leading the rat race - it is a responsibility to life! A life worth living in a green, clean, efficient place! Review your take on the green debate - do something right! We are lucky in Nairobi, things could be a lot worse. Then again, if we don't do something soon then we are bound to be a lot worse than anywhere else!